WINE & SPIRITS BLOG      

Love Children   Caleb Taft •  Jan 12, 2010 •  1 Comment »

From the Ampelography Reminder Department: You may have missed it, but a study published Mid-December in the online Biology Letters, revisited an earlier paper examining the varied offspring of Gouais Blanc and Pinot (usually and probably Noir, but sometimes the genetically equivalent Blanc and Gris). The 1999 study, published in Science and authored by researchers in France and at UC Davis (including grape DNA superstar Carole Meredith), listed 16 varieties sired by this cross - most conspicuously the noble Chardonnay. Others include the Burgundian grapes Gamay Noir, Aligoté and Auxerrois, and from the Loire, Melon and Romarantin. The new study is significant in that it establishes Gouais as the "Mother" for many of the crosses examined, and all of the best-regarded varieties. The parentage was traced through the DNA of chloroplasts (the organelles that drive photosynthesis) and mitochondria (which generate the chemical energy to power cells), both of which are inherited in grapes, like the majority of the genetic material, maternally.

In the Middle Ages, Gouais Blanc was one of the most widely planted white varieties in Northeast France (Burgundy, Champagne, Alsace and the Jura) and in central Europe. Pinot too was also widely planted, although it was laid into the favored sites (usually hillside, owned by the aristocracy and the church), whereas Gouais was planted on the less-desirable flatland, where it made serviceable wine at best. Its main feature as a wine grape is a high yield, and is generally characterized as a "rustic" or "peasant" varietal; indeed, the roots of the grape's name in both French and German (where it is known as Weißer Henuisch), are probably pejorative. Attempts were made to ban the grape outright several times, though it would be hard to say whether this is due to its unsuitability as a wine grape, a privileged class land grab, or merely to put arable land to more food production. Still, save for a few vineyard sites around the world and samples in research facilities, Gouais Blanc has almost completely disappeared.

But not before it also sired Riesling.

Selected tasting notes from our wine list of Gouais Blanc x Pinot crosses

François Cazin Cour-Cheverny 2007 (Romarantin)
Bright white floral nose, with notes of green vetch, talc and lemon oil. Crisp and acidic attack to the palate, rounds out slightly with salty, limey notes and a raw honey finish.

Chasseloir Muscadet "Cuvée Ceps Centenaires" 2003 (Melon)
From 100+ year old vines planted in Nantes, at the mouth of the Loire River. Shows the heat of the vintage, with leesy, brioche notes over the minerally, greengage plums in the nose. Ripe and round on the palate, but with good cut and salinity framing the granitic core.

Groffier Bourgogne Passetoutgrains 2007 (Pinot Noir-Gamay)
Groffier is a stellar estate, with holdings in 2 Grand Crus (Bonnes Mares and Chambertin-Clos de Bèze) and several 1er Cru Chambolles. This AOC allow for a blend of Pinot and Gamay, a rarity in Burgundy. A soft, open nose of bright cherries and raspberries balance against darker fruits, spice and a little bit of funk. Tart cherry entry, with mouthwatering acidity and some fine tannins on the long finish. We are currently pouring this by the glass.

Posted by Caleb Taft on January 12, 2010 • Filed under Wine • Share: del.icio.us / StumbleUpon / Digg

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